The French: making it look easy

Vive la France?

What does the average person think of when he/she thinks of France? Great food? Great wine? Beautiful varied scenery? A certain relaxedness among the populace?

All of these things being true, the one that will be examined here is the last one. In this respect, when compared to most of the other modern western industrialized nations (and possibly the entire world), France is truly unique.

I have lived in France for almost a year now. I worked with them at a ski station in the Alps for six months during “la saison d'hiver”. I ate all my meals with them, spent most days at work with them, hit the slopes with them, and of course, our “soirees” were all spent together. They came from all over the country, from as far north as Eperleques, to the Bretagne region, as well as many scattered across Southern France. They all had their own unique stories. There were women, men, teenagers, young adults, as well as punks, preps, goths, hippies...the whole gamut. But in spite of all of these differences, they held one thing in common:

A high held appreciation for “living the good life”.

None of them let work dictate or dominate their lives. They did not live to work, but rather they worked to live. This approach to life seems to manifest itself across the entire country. It is almost primordial. And one could argue, uniquely and quintessentially French.

Here are a few examples:

• The French receive more vacation time than the vast majority of modern nations. A nation-wide minimum of 5 weeks paid vacation a year is granted to each and every working French citizen. Compare these to 2 weeks in the States and in Japan.
• Sundays, out of a desire and a need among them to spend time with loved ones or to simply relax, are pretty much always dead. Save for a few restaurants, large supermarkets which can be open Sunday mornings, and a small collection of others, everything is closed. While this can pose inconveniences for others, a day of real rest must do wonders for mental health and give one time to slow down a little bit to “smell the roses”. Sundays in France are often spent by crowding the whole family around the table for a huge lunch, likely followed by some siestas. I heard from one friend here that his family's sunday lunches could last up to 6 hours on end!
• Most stores will close for 2-3 hours during the afternoon. This gives the French a relatively luxurious afternoon break to eat a healthy and balanced lunch, rarely lacking the glass of rose and the espresso. It is a common concern among doctors that many people simply eat too fast. This can cause stress and bad digestion. Maybe the French have it right taking their time, discussing, laughing, and savouring every bite and taste. It sure beats eating at the desk!
• French people tend to retire much younger than most of the world. For example, currently, SNCF workers are consistently retiring in their early 50s with a full pension including all the benefits to boot! This gives many french people even more time after their working days to vacation, relax, and basically to enjoy life after work.
• 35 hour work weeks in France are not just common; they're the law! Currently, it is illegal to work more than 35 hours a week in France. Additional hours do not necessarily translate to additonal pay so there is no incentive to go over the limit. I once met somebody who, because he worked over 35 hours a week before the law was instilled, is now able to recuperate those hours. This basically means that 31 hour work weeks became the norm for him! One of the most impressive things about this phenomenon (unique to France) is that as research has shown, productivity per hour in France is higher than it is in the States. One can surmise from this that when they are working, they are truly working hard and efficiently. But when they are off, they are truly off, not wanting to be bothered with anything that will even remind them of work.

I could go on. Maternity leave is very generous. Doctors will often recommend patients to take a fairly long break off work in order to fully recuperate at their own pace. Nothing is rushed in France.

A picture perfect example would be one that I witnessed myself with my own eyes. I was walking down a market street near Sarlat, France around lunch-time a couple of weeks back. My aunt stopped to admire (and possibly purchase) a tablecloth.

“How much is this?” she asked, clearly showing interest in a purchase.

This was the storekeepers reply: “I'm sorry. It's lunchtime right now. I was just going to sit down at the table. Please come back in 2 hours.”

A bit stupefied that she would not delay lunch for a few minutes to make a sale, the only words my aunt could find were “Bon Appetit.”

Sometimes, I think the French have it right. They have struck a delicate balance between work and leisure. Between the grind of personal goals and responsibilities and the desire to simply enjoy life, to relax. The best thing about this balance is that it actually works. And even better, it is contagious. I know I'm starting to take longer lunch breaks. I mean, what's the rush?

Morocco

So it's been about 5 days since we touched down in Morocco. So I figured it was time to get some of my thoughts down on paper. We have been extremely busy, always in the process of either visiting something or planning our next move so free time has remained a luxury.

We arrived at the airport of Marrakesh at around 10 pm Morocco time and went directly to our hotel. Having already read about the culture, I knew that bargaining was not only suggested, but you were a full out sucker if you didn't get yourself into the game. But we were tired so we accepted the first price that the taxi driver offered. About 7 euros each so nothing too excessive. Our day was FILLED with public transportation so when we finally touched down (my first time on African soil, by the way), we were pretty wiped.

The people

Let me tell you that of all the countries that I've visited (quite a few), I would put Moroccans at near the top of the list in terms of friendliness. I'm not naive. I do realize that their nicety is often spurred on by their desire to make a buck, but I rest convinced that they are a kind, open, hospitable, and warm hearted people. We have been in Morocco for only 5 days and have already been invited into the homes of strangers 3 times! While I did read about this traditional Moroccan hospitality, it was a pleasant surprise to actually experience it. This, I cannot say for any other country that I've visited:

• The Japanese were extremely helpful and friendly with offering directions (usually accompanying until arrival) but never was I invited into a Japanese home.
• The Chinese that I worked were also very helpful, but in the 2 months I spent there, working with them, eating with them, and going out for drinks with them, did I ever see one of their homes.

One of the Visits

The prettiest site so far would have to be the Cascades d'Ouzoud, one of the most beautiful waterfalls I've ever seen and definitely a must see if you ever come to Morocco. I would even go as far to describe the area as 'video game-like', specifically one of the levels from Mario Kart 64. We took the trail from our Ryad to go check out the waterfall from various viewpoints.

The waterfall zooms down to a river where (unless you want to go swimming in arguably dirty water) the two banks are inaccessible from each other. The only other and far hygienic option is to take one of the boats manned by a Moroccan, who will charge you about 10 dirhams (1 euro) for the 30 second trip. We took the boat to the other side, started up the trail, and after about 15 minutes of hard uphill climbing, we were lost. We seemed to had lost all of the tourists and the only life around were the magot monkeys and probably snakes (which we didn't see thank god). We kept walking in the hopes that we would stumble across someone and finally came across a Berber house. Using my limited knowledge of the people and culture here, the Berbers are a group in Morocco that are often relegated to Berber villages given that they do not receive all of the advantages that the rest of Moroccans receive. They are given the short end of the stick.

Anyway, we asked the first person we saw and she immediately invited us in to see drink a tea and see their traditional Berber home. We sat down on deteriorating woven stools. The mother served us mint tea, bread, and butter and we spent the next 15 minutes enjoying our tea and swiping at bugs. Not much was said given the mother's lack of French or English, but I think everyone felt at ease nonetheless. Now living in a traditional house like that is something that I would have some difficulties with, given my relatively prosperous upbringing. But seeing the way that the poorer rural population live in Morocco was very interesting. We saw the daughter (who spoke French fluently), the father (who spoke French very well), and the mother (who spoke maybe 3 words). Oh, and they had about 5 goats.

After the tea, the father invited us into his 'room' to smoke with him and watch his Arabic music videos. Seriously, I didn't even smoke but his videos reminded me so much of Borat! The mustachioed, suit toting Arab men singing their traditional songs was enough to plant images of 'my wife!' and shitting in plastic bag in my mind. He smoked his hash (very common in Morocco), and we watched his video in silence. After that, he led us all the way back to our Riad. We didn't say a word the entire trip which lasted about 10 minutes over some fairly treacherous terrain. Oh, and he was in bare feet.

And perhaps most surprisingly, he didn't ask us for any compensation for his directions. Having already been assaulted by vendors in Marrakesh; having payed for a impromptu tour of the medina by someone who just started walking and talking with us; having been ordered to pay a few dirhams after taking a picture of someone; this family was a pleasant surprise. Authentic Moroccan hospitality!

Another little word on the people. Despite all of the aggressive selling; despite the gentleman who asked me adamantly to pay for a picture I had taken; and despite each outdoor restaurant at Place Jemaa El F'na literally grabbing us and stopping just short of putting our butts IN the seats; I have never felt physically threatened by any Moroccan and from all that I have seen, I am convinced that they are a warm and friendly people by nature. But who just want to make a buck like the rest of the world.

Marseille

Allez! C'est parti! Voila, mesdames et monsieurs, mon premier blog en francais. Soyez patients et comprennent que je vais faire les fautes d'ortographes etc. Mais c'est bon pour moi de pratiquer la langue qui m'a apporter ici; qui m'a donner beaucoup de plaisirs et qui m'a frustre a la meme temps pendant les dernier six mois.

La, on vient de quitter Marseille. C'etait une ville que j'avais vraiment envie to voir. Je crois que c'etait a cause de mon ancienne enseignante de francais a Nice qui a parle avec beaucoup d'enthousiasme de Marseille. En bref, elle nous a dit que Marseille etait, dans plusieurs de sens, le contraire de Paris. Paris (pas tout les quartiers) est plutot bourgeois; Marseille, acceptante. Paris est hyper tourisitique. Pourtant que Marseille devienne plus et plus touristique, elle reste la ville des Marseillais. Elle nous a aussi dit avec beaucoup d'energie que Marseille est une ville qui bouge. Elle voulait dire qu'a Marseille, le niveau de la culture, de la musique, de la poesie, de la creativite en general est tres sophistiquee.

J'ai bien aime la ville. Avant de venir, j'ai entendu de pal mal de monde que c'etait une ville violente, avec les jeunes hors controlles. Pourtant, j'ai dit que je vais me joindre avec les jeunes et les aider a bruler les voitures des flic (en rigolant, bien sur). Mais j'etais surpris. Jamais a Marseille est-ce que j'ai senti en danger. Tout le monde qu'on a demande pour les conseils etait tres prêt a nous aider. Les calanques etaient tres jolies! On a marche pour environ 6 heures. C'etait vraiment trop et on etait completement creves a la fin. Je vous jure! Mais, on avait pas le choix. Vu que quelqu'un nous a laisse la sans voiture, on avait une seule route a prendre pour s'en sortir. Six heures plus tard et juste quand stock d'eau existait plus, on est arrive.

Le lendemain, on est alle au match de foot au Stade Velodrome. Apres avoir passe plus que 6 mois en France, je me suis rendu compte vite fait que la France (et l'Europe) etait obsedee par le foot. Par rapport au basket, c'est un sport nul mais quand meme, j'aime bien. Dans ma ville au Canada, Toronto, elle vienne d'avoir un equipe de foot, Toronto FC. Je suis alle a quelque matchs l'ete derniere et vu que Toronto est un peu rempli par les immigres d'Europe, naturellement, un equipe de foot les ont attire, mais d'une force! Chaque match est rempli. Les fans, ils preparent les banderoles. Ils chantent les chansons. Ils lancent les trucs a les visiteurs. Ils mangent et boivent sur le parking avant le match. Ils voyagent avec l'equipe pour les soutenir. Bref, ils ont apporter l'esprit de l'Europe avec eux. Le match au Velodrome avait beaucoup des meme trucs, mais beaucoup plus prononce. Premierement, il y avait 60,000 personnes au lieu de 12. Il y avait plus de banderoles et les chansons etaient beaucoup plus organise et bruyant. L'atmosphere dans le stade etait incroyable. Laisse tomber! C'etait enorme! Une chose que j'ai trouve bizarre etait le fait qu'ils ont pas servi du tout l'alcohol! Bizarre! Il ont du avoir quelques incidents de violence qui etaient accentues par l'alcohol. C'est pas grave. On a bu les pastis apres le match pour 2 euros chacun.

Donc, voilà. Premier essaie en francais. Ca ne va pas etre le dernier.

INTO THE WILD

I watch a lot of films. Inevitably, I watch a lot of bad films. However, every now and then, one will come along that impresses me so much that I simply cannot stop playing it over and over in my head. A film that really hits me hard. This is a rare phenomenon and I felt compelled to write about my last experience with it.

The film, “Into the Wild”, concerns a young recently graduated guy who, fed up with society and all its hypocrisies, decides to take off on his own, actually into the wild. He meets many people along his journey, with all of these events culminating with him alone in the middle of nowhere in Alaska. The film was written and shot by Sean Penn, (sometimes a little too “Hollywood Liberal” for me) who does a fantastic job. The shots of the wild north, of the glances between characters, of the writing on the screen of the man's journal, and of the incorporation of the soundtrack into the film is something to be lauded. Eddie Vedder (frontman of Pearl Jam) wrote the majority of the songs with the film in mind, and it is safe to say that I would not be writing this had Mr. Vedder not been involved. His music and lyrics bring the movie to life and give it an isolated yet human feel. Could not have been scored better.

It is hard to say why this movie affected me in this way. Maybe it is because I sometimes feel like the main character does; sick of fake smiles and handshakes, pressures of life (both social and professional). There must be many people with these feelings, but in this film (based on a real story), our main character does something about it. Rather than adapting, he invents. Rather than tolerating, he redefines himself. Rather than living up to the expectations of his family, he creates his own.

It is truly a beautiful and touching film from start to finish. Although a tad long (almost 2.5 hrs.), the time will fly by. I was enthralled with the scenery, the characters, and the fusion of all that with the potent songwriting. I have Eddie Vedder as much to thank as I do Sean Penn. So, my friends, go “into the wild”. You may even go native.

Stereotypes re: the French

To foreigners all over the world, the French can mean a whole lot of things. The mere mention of the word is enough for some people (for better or worse) to form a sharp image in their heads. Try these on for size:

Baguettes
Bicycles
Eiffel Tower
Cuisine
Snobbishness,
Philosophy
Undersized coffees
Croissants
Cheese

These, my fellow audience, are nothing but ignorant stereotypes. Even for people who have visited France (usually just Paris) could conceivably come home with these stereotypes more strongly ingrained in their psyches. Sure, French people eat a lot of baguettes! Sure, there have been some highly influential French philosophers “a l'epoque”! Sure, there are some French snobs! As if there are not these types everywhere across the world! And yes, my friends, even Canadians!

International media (predominantly American, let's face it), portray the French as in love with themselves and stuck in their own French culture, not even bothering to look elsewhere. Need some examples? Almost every animated Disney movie has one. The candle and Gaston in Beauty and the Beast for example. The Simpsons, South Park among others do a fine job as well of including a French stereotype every now and then. Sure, Canadians, Brits, and many others suffer from the same preconceptions but I submit that the French have it worst. As the French say, these are “les conneries”!

For someone who has been in France for 6 months, a little bit all over, and (most importantly) someone who has met many different French people from all over this great country, I can tell you all that the stereotypes are mostly entirely made up. Some examples and attempts at quelling them:

The French are “inward looking”

I suppose that many groups are guilty of this but again, the French are unfairly portrayed as the kings of self-adulation. Of the French people that I have met here, there have been a majority who either have travelled extensively, or plan to. All over the world and for long stretches of time. New Zealand, Scotland, Canada, Japan, and Congo to name a few. This is made perhaps more impressive given that the welcome for French people around the world (mostly speaking about the States) would not be characterized as “warm” or “with open arms”. Not only do they travel a lot, but I have found that, to a large degree, they sincerely care and stay informed about global events from all over the often troubled and conflicted world. They are not constantly looking inward to their accordions and baguettes but rather conversely, outward.

The French don't respect the non-French

OK, this is slightly connected to the previous topic but worth a little discussion. Basically, all of the French people whom I have met (who come from all over France usually minus Paris) are supportive, helpful, warm, funny, and welcoming. They often understand what it is like to be a foreigner in a foreign land and often try to aid these people along their way. There were some who warned me upon deciding to come to France that the people would not be welcoming, that they would be so engrossed in their own French lives that they wouldn't care a lick about me. I am here to say that this has turned out to be quite the opposite.

So the question begs. Why this negative, sometimes harsh portrayal of France from many (not all) people across this world? Are they jealous? After all, France does boast a varied climate, great food, a strong socialist like government, varied scenery from the Pyrenees Mountains to the Mediterranean Sea to the French Alps. Would you leave here? And yet they do, and it is something that is not often enough discussed and acknowledged.

Bored at work

I am sure that many of you have run into this problem before. After all, many many jobs require of you a lot of um sitting around? Looking pretty? Helping people every once in awhile? Well, for me, this "once in a while" has turned into little to nothing today. Oops, just got a phone call. That alleviated my boredom for approximately 28 seconds.
But seriously, my jobs not bad. I get to practice my french all the time which is really helpful. If I was vacuuming or cleaning toilets, my french skills would remain pretty stagnant. And I also look pretty damn flashy in my suit!
Anyway, not sure if anyone reads this (haha) but a big hug to everyone out there! Spread the love! YES WE CAN! Haha. I'm a fan of Obama.
A plus!